Sunday, June 4, 2023

Sri Lanka - A Journey through its Nature, Culture and Diversity

Sri Lanka is a small island nation in the Indian Ocean that offers a wealth of experiences for travelers who are looking for something different. Whether you are interested in exploring its ancient heritage, its diverse culture, or its stunning natural beauty, Sri Lanka has something for everyone. Here are some of the highlights of this amazing country that we covered in our trip.

The Landscape of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a land of many contrasts, with its diverse landscapes ranging from sandy beaches and coral reefs to lush rainforests and misty mountains. You can enjoy the tropical climate and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean along the coast, where you can find some of the best surfing spots in the world. You can also visit the national parks and wildlife sanctuaries that are home to hundreds of species of animals and plants, including elephants, leopards, monkeys, birds and flowers. If you are dharmic, you have many ancient temples/stupas spread across the country. If you have taste for adventure, you can hike or take a train ride through the hills and tea plantations of the central highlands, where you can witness the breathtaking views of waterfalls, valleys and lakes.

We tailored our trip on the theme "Ramayana trial" - the key places that are depicted in our national Epic Ramayana. Our guide said to cover all the places depicted in Ramayana it would take over a week of dedicated time. But we decided to include some other famous tourist places. Hence, we could focus on only the main places in Ramayana. Some of the most popular places that we visited in Sri Lanka where the highlight was landscape were:

Sigiriya: This ancient rock fortress is one of the most iconic landmarks of Sri Lanka. It was built by King Kasyapa in the 5th century CE as his royal palace and capital. The site features a massive rock that rises 200 meters above the surrounding plains, with a palace complex on top and a series of gardens, ponds and frescoes at its base. Sigiriya is also known as the Lion Rock because of the huge lion-shaped gateway that leads to the summit. It is also said that Ravana's kingdom existed in & around this area. To go to the top, one needs to climb 1200+ steps, I reckon it's totally worth the effort. 

Spectacular view before the climb

Our guide of the day in Sigiriya

At the top

The climb

Yala National Park: This is the most visited and second largest national park in Sri Lanka. It covers an area of 979 square kilometers and hosts a variety of ecosystems such as forests, grasslands, wetlands and beaches. Yala is famous for its wildlife diversity and density, especially its large population of leopards. It is also home to elephants, crocodiles, sloth bears, deer, monkeys and many species of birds. Yala has the highest population density of leopards in the world, making it a great place to spot these elusive cats.

Elephant - most common sighting

Nuwara Eliya: This is a picturesque town in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country. The British colonial experience is strong as still retains its major influence in architecture. Nuwara Eliya is surrounded by green hills and tea plantations that produce some of the finest teas in the world. It is also a popular destination for hiking, golfing and enjoying the cool climate. We also witness Ashoka Vatika where Sita Devi was held captive by the demon King Ravana - there is a temple dedicated to Devi Sita.

The Culture of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a melting pot of cultures that reflects its long and rich history. The country has been influenced by various civilizations and religions over the centuries, from ancient Buddhist kingdoms to colonial powers such as Portugal, Netherlands andc1 Britain. Today, Sri Lanka is a multi-ethnic and multi-religious society that celebrates its diversity and harmony. You can experience the different aspects of Sri Lankan culture by visiting its temples, mosques, churches and monuments that showcase its architectural and artistic heritage. You can also enjoy its vibrant festivals, music, dance and cuisine that reflect its unique blend of traditions and influences.

Some of the popular places we visited in Sri Lanka with a focus on its culture were:

Trincomalee: Trincomalee is a town and port in the Eastern Province of Sri Lanka and has a rich history and culture, dating back to over two millennia. It is home to the famous Koneswaram temple, which is one of the five abodes of Shiva and a major Hindu pilgrimage siteTrincomalee is also known for its beautiful beaches, such as Uppuveli and Nilaveli. Trincomalee is a hidden gem in Sri Lanka that offers a unique experience for travelers.

Kandy: This is the cultural capital of Sri Lanka and the last royal city of the Sinhalese kings. It is located in a scenic valley surrounded by hills and forests. Kandy is famous for its sacred Temple of the Tooth Relic , which houses a tooth believed to belong to Buddha himself. The temple is also the venue for the annual Esala Perahera festival , which is one of the most spectacular religious processions in Asia. It features thousands of dancers, drummers, elephants and torchbearers parading through the streets in honor of Buddha.

Galle: This is a historic port city on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. It was founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century and later fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century. Galle is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture and atmosphere. The Galle Fort , which covers an area of 52 hectares , is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains many buildings from different eras. On the way from Galle to Colombo we would get the coastal city of Bentota where you could see a large chunck of European tourists because of availability of hosts of watersports. There is a spectacular watersport activity around mangroove forest where Madu river meets Indian ocean.

Colombo Colombo is a bustling and vibrant city that offers a mixture of modern life, colonial buildings and monuments, and natural beauty.  It has a rich and diverse history and culture, influenced by various colonial powers such as the Portuguese, Dutch and British, as well as the local Sinhalese and Tamil communities.

Conclusion - Whether you want to relax on the sand, explore the cultural heritage, or enjoy the thrill of adventure, Sri Lanka has something for everyone. Highly recommended.

Thursday, December 22, 2022

North-Eastern Chronicle - Part 2

After our journey back to Guwahati, we left for Arunachal Pradesh via Bhairav Kund (situated on the border of Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh, near the Bhutanese town of Daifam). As the relationship between India and Bhutan is great, it's fairly easy to get into Bhutan with a pass. As we had a lot of distance to cover (Guwahati to Dirang which is over 300km, because of the terrain takes more than 8-10 hours), we decided not to go into Bhutan even if for a few hours.

Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal Pradesh is the easternmost state of the country and shares international borders with China, Myanmar, and Bhutan. It stretches from snow-capped mountains in the north to the plains of Brahmaputra valley in the south and is home to some of the Himalayas’ tallest mountains.



It is a land of lush green forests, deep river valleys, and beautiful plateaus. It is also one of the coldest regions in India. The region has a large Buddhist population and many monasteries, which are known for their hand-carved wooden sculptures.

The main places of interest for us would be Dirang, Bomdila, Tawang but because of the large distances and the treacherous terrain, a lot of time will go into traveling. Border Road Organization has done an excellent job in building the roads to near perfection. This is also to do with the sensitivity of the region as it shares borders with one of the most covetous, expansionist countries in the world. Once you make inroads into Arunachal, you can see army camps almost everywhere unsurprisingly. 

Dirang is a pit stop for vehicles coming from Guwahati as travelling to Tawang from Guwahati in a day is quite a task because of the terrain and altitude. Dirang is a quiet little town with monasteries and Kameng river - a nice place for an overnight stay. 

Quiet town Dirang

Sela Pass - on the way to Tawang from Dirang

After the overnight stay in Dirang, the next morning journey is towards Tawang. On the way, we'll find many memorials, army camps, waterfalls making the journey exciting.





When we reached Tawang on Dec 9, the omens were not good - we heard there was some meeting between Indian and Chinese army personnel, and all the tourists were asked to go back (from Bum-la, the line of actual control between India and China). This was bad news for us as we were scheduled to go to Bum-la the next day. As luck would have it and as the Gods may have willed, there was no problem for us to go to Bum-la the next day.

Tawang is the last town of India, located close to the India-China border. It's a splendid place, filled with snow-capped mountains and deep valleys. It's also home to one of the biggest presences of the Indian army, which guards the border and keeps the town safe from any intruders. Being the last town in India means you can get a glimpse of the Chinese border without actually crossing it - it happens in Bum-La! It's a great spot for adventurers, as there's plenty of hiking, camping, and wildlife watching to be done. Plus, the scenery is simply breathtaking. 


India-China border in Bum-La

The drive from Tawang to Bumla is one to remember. If you're looking for a truly adventurous drive, look no further than the drive from Tawang to Bumla. This rugged terrain is a challenge to even the most experienced drivers, but if you're up for it, the views are worth it. The winding roads snake through a beautiful valley and offer spectacular views of the Himalayas. But be warned - the terrain is rocky and the roads can be treacherous, with hairpin bends and sheer drops! You'll have to be extra careful, but the feeling of conquering this terrain will make it all worth it. Plus, there are plenty of stops along the way for you to take pictures and marvel at the stunning landscape.

Needless to say, the drive back from Guwahati is equally breathtaking. Arunachal, as mentioned before is home to monasteries and you will find them in all the towns: Dirang, Tawang, Bomdila etc., If you are a military history enthusiast, you'll love the whole circuit as each town speaks to you (Brig. Dalvi's book "Himalayan Blunder" is highly recommended in this context).

Bomdila Monastery


In conclusion

Northeast is an unsullied beauty - it has something to offer to everyone: adventure seekers, nature and peace lovers, history buffs, spiritual enthusiasts, etc. If given proper focus and publicity, it has all the potential to be developed as a major tourist destination of the world. All Indians should endeavor to travel to the Northeast, soak in the beauty and be amazed at how diverse a country India is and know it first-hand.

North-Eastern Chronicle - Part 1

India is the land of the Himalayas, the country of spirituality, and the place where four of the world's major religions were born. It is also a country that has a lot to offer in terms of nature and culture, that can be rivaled by few other countries in the world.

The North-east region of India is unique in many senses: not as crowded as other parts of India, largely unexplored barring a few places, and one of the most off-beaten destinations. The region offers pristine views and some of the most beautiful landscapes in India- from lush green tea plantations to snow-capped foothills of the mighty Himalayas. And of course, the never-ending streams and falls. 

The planning

Four of us - ex-colleagues turned friends decided we'll go someplace in the East this winter. Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh were the two contenders, Arunachal won for budget reasons (we learned Bhutan has turned very pricey for foreign tourists, especially after Covid). One of our friends in the group is from Guwahati. He suggested that there is this "Hornbill festival" that happens in Nagaland from Dec 1 to 10 every year - we can witness that too if the time matches. This (Nagaland, Guwahati, Arunachal) formed the skeleton of the trip in which Arunachal was the core.

I'll briefly highlight the important places covered on the trip.

Guwahati, Assam

The Kaziranga National Park is one of the most well-known destinations in Assam. The park is home to two-thirds of the world’s population of one-horned rhinoceros. We took both an elephant safari (highly recommended) and a jeep safari. 



Rhino sights are common along with elephants, wild buffalos, deer, etc. The national park also houses 100 odd tigers - of course, their sightings are quite rare. 

Assam, along with a few other states in the East is a diverse and culturally rich state - with close to one hundred distinct tribes (Bodo, Kachari, Rabha, Lalung, Karbi and Garo to name a few), foods, dresses, etc. The cultural show that gets organized in the orchid park showcases all the varieties of dance, and music forms of Assam. The orchid park also showcases the varieties of the flora of the state.

The Kamakhya temple is located in the heart of the city and is dedicated to Goddess Kamakhya. It is one of the 51 Shakti Peeta spread across the sub-continent, which are shrines that represent the goddess’s body parts. The temple has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries and is visited by both Hindus and Buddhists alike.  

It's one of the few prominent temples where tantric practices are carried on to date. It was a different kind of experience for most of us as this was unlike most of the temples we had been to.

Nagaland

Nagaland is a very small state in the northeast, and it is also one of the most exotic places in India. The people are mostly tribal, and the Christian missionaries have converted them a century ago to Christianity, and the vast majority practice Baptism. English is the official language.

Apart from the natural beauty, Nagaland is also known for its tribal festival called Hornbill Festival which takes place every year from December 1 to 10 in the capital city of Kohima is an annual festival that celebrates the culture, tradition, and history of Nagaland. The festival lasts for ten days, and it includes different events such as arts, crafts, music, sports competitions, etc., which showcase the colorful traditions of Nagaland to outsiders too.



A prototype Naga village representing one of the tribes

You will have a tough time if you are a vegetarian as the options are very scarce (even for non-vegetarians the options are mostly to do with pork, chicken, and beef). Since we had only a night and two days scheduled for Nagaland, we couldn't cover other places of interest like Dzüko Valley which would be a great place to visit if you have one day extra. Entering Nagaland requires an inter-state permit which is to be taken beforehand. This is the same case with Arunachal Pradesh too.

The other places of interest in Kohima were the war cemetery (a memorial dedicated to the 2nd British Division of the Allied Forces who died in the Second World War at Kohima) and the cathedral of Kohima which we visited on our way back to Guwahati. We needed a break before our much-awaited sojourn to Arunachal Pradesh (we'll cover this in the next and final part).