North-Eastern Chronicle - Part 2

After our journey back to Guwahati, we left for Arunachal Pradesh via Bhairav Kund (situated on the border of Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh, near the Bhutanese town of Daifam). As the relationship between India and Bhutan is great, it's fairly easy to get into Bhutan with a pass. As we had a lot of distance to cover (Guwahati to Dirang which is over 300km, because of the terrain takes more than 8-10 hours), we decided not to go into Bhutan even if for a few hours.

Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal Pradesh is the easternmost state of the country and shares international borders with China, Myanmar, and Bhutan. It stretches from snow-capped mountains in the north to the plains of Brahmaputra valley in the south and is home to some of the Himalayas’ tallest mountains.

It is a land of lush green forests, deep river valleys, and beautiful plateaus. It is also one of the coldest regions in India. The region has a large Buddhist population and many monasteries, which are known for their hand-carved wooden sculptures.

The main places of interest for us would be Dirang, Bomdila, Tawang but because of the large distances and the treacherous terrain, a lot of time will go into traveling. Border Road Organization has done an excellent job in building the roads to near perfection. This is also to do with the sensitivity of the region as it shares borders with one of the most covetous, expansionist countries in the world. Once you make inroads into Arunachal, you can see army camps almost everywhere unsurprisingly. 

Dirang is a pit stop for vehicles coming from Guwahati as travelling to Tawang from Guwahati in a day is quite a task because of the terrain and altitude. Dirang is a quiet little town with monasteries and Kameng river - a nice place for an overnight stay. 

Quiet town Dirang

Sela Pass - on the way to Tawang from Dirang

After the overnight stay in Dirang, the next morning journey is towards Tawang. On the way, we'll find many memorials, army camps, waterfalls making the journey exciting.

When we reached Tawang on Dec 9, the omens were not good - we heard there was some meeting between Indian and Chinese army personnel, and all the tourists were asked to go back (from Bum-la, the line of actual control between India and China). This was bad news for us as we were scheduled to go to Bum-la the next day. As luck would have it and as the Gods may have willed, there was no problem for us to go to Bum-la the next day.

Tawang is the last town of India, located close to the India-China border. It's a splendid place, filled with snow-capped mountains and deep valleys. It's also home to one of the biggest presences of the Indian army, which guards the border and keeps the town safe from any intruders. Being the last town in India means you can get a glimpse of the Chinese border without actually crossing it - it happens in Bum-La! It's a great spot for adventurers, as there's plenty of hiking, camping, and wildlife watching to be done. Plus, the scenery is simply breathtaking. 

India-China border in Bum-La

The drive from Tawang to Bumla is one to remember. If you're looking for a truly adventurous drive, look no further than the drive from Tawang to Bumla. This rugged terrain is a challenge to even the most experienced drivers, but if you're up for it, the views are worth it. The winding roads snake through a beautiful valley and offer spectacular views of the Himalayas. But be warned - the terrain is rocky and the roads can be treacherous, with hairpin bends and sheer drops! You'll have to be extra careful, but the feeling of conquering this terrain will make it all worth it. Plus, there are plenty of stops along the way for you to take pictures and marvel at the stunning landscape.

Needless to say, the drive back from Guwahati is equally breathtaking. Arunachal, as mentioned before is home to monasteries and you will find them in all the towns: Dirang, Tawang, Bomdila etc., If you are a military history enthusiast, you'll love the whole circuit as each town speaks to you (Brig. Dalvi's book "Himalayan Blunder" is highly recommended in this context).

Bomdila Monastery

In conclusion

Northeast is an unsullied beauty - it has something to offer to everyone: adventure seekers, nature and peace lovers, history buffs, spiritual enthusiasts, etc. If given proper focus and publicity, it has all the potential to be developed as a major tourist destination of the world. All Indians should endeavor to travel to the Northeast, soak in the beauty and be amazed at how diverse a country India is and know it first-hand.