Beneath the Surface: Exploring the Balkans' Layered Reality (Part 2- Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia)

The Adriatic Balkan region—Albania, Montenegro, and North Macedonia—sits at the edge of Europe, where the Adriatic Sea meets rugged mountains and ancient histories. These countries, shaped by Ottoman legacies and communist pasts, are fragments of a larger Balkan baroque, their identities both distinct and intertwined. 

Albania's rugged coastline and scattered bunkers give it a wild feel. Montenegro is small but dramatic, with a rich history. North Macedonia, with its complex layers of history, tells a story of ancient empires. Together, these three countries form a hidden corner of the Balkans, often overlooked but full of character.

Tirana

I decided to make Tirana, the capital of Albania to be the base location to travel to other countries like Montenegro and North Macedonia. 

Skanderbeg Square

Bunk Art

Montenegro

Montenegro is a small, rugged country squeezed between the Adriatic Sea and towering mountains. Its beauty feels raw and untamed, as if the cliffs are constantly battling the waves below. The sunlight here is harsh, turning the white rocks and deep blue shadows into something vivid yet unforgiving. It has very stunning views (I was told Italy was about 200km which may take 5-6 hours in Ferry from here via Adriatic Sea)

Sveti Stefan

Sveti Stefan, a tiny island connected to the shore by a narrow strip of sand, is a mix of old charm and modern luxury. Once a cluster of weathered stone houses and a church, it’s now a polished resort with pink beaches and fancy hotels. (I was told that one of Pierce Brosnan’s movies was shot here). The pink-sand beaches and dense forests surrounding the beachside villa create an enchanting atmosphere.

Old Town - Budva

Budva is a town torn between its past and present. The old fortress, with its cobblestone streets and domed churches, sits awkwardly next to a modern waterfront packed with neon lights and ice cream shops - It’s a place where history and hustle coexist, sometimes somewhat uneasily. Its old town dates back over 2,000 years - it has seen raise and fall of Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans.

Kotor

Despite the luxurious cruise ships and tourist crowds (quite a few when I was there), Kotor holds onto its ancient soul. The fortress walls, climbing the mountainside like a jagged scar, tell stories of soldiers and empires. Its beauty seems like a rebuke to the ephemeral, a testament to what outlasts empires and their passing fancies.

North Macedonia

The very name Macedonia evokes the names of Philip, Alexander and all the rest of it for many of us. The country feels like a manuscript overwritten so many times that every hill, lake, and stone in North Macedonia seems to hold a story. Nowhere is this more vivid than in the twin towns of Struga and Ohrid, where the past comes alive on the shores of Lake Ohrid.

Struga- "City of poetry" has crystal clear waters

Struga is a small town on the shores of Lake Ohrid. It's a lively place with a mix of old and new buildings, and a strong sense of community. It sits at the mouth of the Black Drin River, where the water spills from Lake Ohrid into a delta.

The Church of St. John

Plavnik Cathedral, a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture

Ohrid (also known as The Jerusalem of the Balkans) is a stunning town on the shores of Lake Ohrid, with a rich history dating back to ancient times. Its old town is filled with old world streets, historic churches, and quaint shops, all surrounded by breathtaking views of the lake.

Samuel's Fortress

The 10th-century Samuel’s Fortress, built by a tsar who defied the Byzantine Empire, looms over the town—a jagged crown of stone that still smells of conquest. The Church of St. John at Kaneo teeters on a cliff, its ancient frescoes slowly fading. But the real wonder is Lake Ohrid itself, one of Europe's oldest lakes, with fossils of ancient creatures hidden in its depths.

Ancient Theater of Ohrid

The beautiful town of Ohrid

The cobblestones near the Ancient Theatre —built by Philip II of Macedon, rebuilt by Romans, buried, and unearthed again still echo with the footsteps of centuries past, a testament to the enduring legacy of a city that has been shaped and reshaped by the tides of history.

North Macedonia's beauty is not in its untouched purity but in its resilience, the way its people and landscapes carry the scars and glories of a hundred generations. Its beauty lies in its imperfections and the stories of generations past. Visiting here feels like stepping into a living legacy.