Beneath the Surface: Exploring the Balkans' Layered Reality (Part 2- Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia)

The Adriatic Balkan region—Albania, Montenegro, and North Macedonia—sits at the edge of Europe, where the Adriatic Sea meets rugged mountains and ancient histories. These countries, shaped by Ottoman legacies and communist pasts, are fragments of a larger Balkan baroque, their identities both distinct and intertwined. 

Albania's rugged coastline and scattered bunkers give it a wild feel. Montenegro is small but dramatic, with a rich history. North Macedonia, with its complex layers of history, tells a story of ancient empires. Together, these three countries form a hidden corner of the Balkans, often overlooked but full of character.

Tirana

I decided to make Tirana, the capital of Albania to be the base location to travel to other countries like Montenegro and North Macedonia. 

Skanderbeg Square

Bunk Art

Montenegro

Montenegro is a small, rugged country squeezed between the Adriatic Sea and towering mountains. Its beauty feels raw and untamed, as if the cliffs are constantly battling the waves below. The sunlight here is harsh, turning the white rocks and deep blue shadows into something vivid yet unforgiving. It has very stunning views (I was told Italy was about 200km which may take 5-6 hours in Ferry from here via Adriatic Sea)

Sveti Stefan

Sveti Stefan, a tiny island connected to the shore by a narrow strip of sand, is a mix of old charm and modern luxury. Once a cluster of weathered stone houses and a church, it’s now a polished resort with pink beaches and fancy hotels. (I was told that one of Pierce Brosnan’s movies was shot here). The pink-sand beaches and dense forests surrounding the beachside villa create an enchanting atmosphere.

Old Town - Budva

Budva is a town torn between its past and present. The old fortress, with its cobblestone streets and domed churches, sits awkwardly next to a modern waterfront packed with neon lights and ice cream shops - It’s a place where history and hustle coexist, sometimes somewhat uneasily. Its old town dates back over 2,000 years - it has seen raise and fall of Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans.

Kotor

Despite the luxurious cruise ships and tourist crowds (quite a few when I was there), Kotor holds onto its ancient soul. The fortress walls, climbing the mountainside like a jagged scar, tell stories of soldiers and empires. Its beauty seems like a rebuke to the ephemeral, a testament to what outlasts empires and their passing fancies.

North Macedonia

The very name Macedonia evokes the names of Philip, Alexander and all the rest of it for many of us. The country feels like a manuscript overwritten so many times that every hill, lake, and stone in North Macedonia seems to hold a story. Nowhere is this more vivid than in the twin towns of Struga and Ohrid, where the past comes alive on the shores of Lake Ohrid.

Struga- "City of poetry" has crystal clear waters

Struga is a small town on the shores of Lake Ohrid. It's a lively place with a mix of old and new buildings, and a strong sense of community. It sits at the mouth of the Black Drin River, where the water spills from Lake Ohrid into a delta.

The Church of St. John

Plavnik Cathedral, a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture

Ohrid (also known as The Jerusalem of the Balkans) is a stunning town on the shores of Lake Ohrid, with a rich history dating back to ancient times. Its old town is filled with old world streets, historic churches, and quaint shops, all surrounded by breathtaking views of the lake.

Samuel's Fortress

The 10th-century Samuel’s Fortress, built by a tsar who defied the Byzantine Empire, looms over the town—a jagged crown of stone that still smells of conquest. The Church of St. John at Kaneo teeters on a cliff, its ancient frescoes slowly fading. But the real wonder is Lake Ohrid itself, one of Europe's oldest lakes, with fossils of ancient creatures hidden in its depths.

Ancient Theater of Ohrid

The beautiful town of Ohrid

The cobblestones near the Ancient Theatre —built by Philip II of Macedon, rebuilt by Romans, buried, and unearthed again still echo with the footsteps of centuries past, a testament to the enduring legacy of a city that has been shaped and reshaped by the tides of history.

North Macedonia's beauty is not in its untouched purity but in its resilience, the way its people and landscapes carry the scars and glories of a hundred generations. Its beauty lies in its imperfections and the stories of generations past. Visiting here feels like stepping into a living legacy.

Beneath the Surface: Exploring the Balkans' Layered Reality (Part 1- Serbia and Bosnia & Herzegovina)

Balkan region, a collection of over ten countries in South-Eastern Europe is steeped in the echoes of a tumultuous history, invite deep reflection rather than mere observation. When I set foot in this complex region, I did not know what exactly to expect but my intent was far from that of a typical traveler seeking picturesque views. Instead, I tried aiming to delve into the profound silence that hangs over the land—a silence thick with the remnants of conflict, identity, and sorrow. Here, the air is charged with the weight of past struggles, each conversation inevitably weaving through threads of nostalgia and remembrance. Yet, amidst these historical shadows, life thrives—a vibrant energy pulsating through bustling markets, along winding roads, and in the expressions of the locals. The Balkans resist simplistic narratives; they beckon those willing to grapple with their intricate reality and understand the paradoxes that only become clear through intimate experience. 

In many of the urban landscapes that I witnessed in the Balkans, one could see the streets reveal a rich tapestry—an overlay of empires, wars, and revolutions layered upon each other. As one walks through Belgrade, or Sarajevo, it’s impossible to escape the historical narratives that one has studied; however, one soon becomes aware of the deeper layers—the unspeakable stories, the half-formed memories, and the collective traumas that subtly shape everyday life. Within this often-painful context, an unexpected beauty emerges—a beauty born not from ease, but rather from resilience and the acceptance of life’s imperfections. It is not a beauty that eschews the glossy allure of postcard images, but instead a complex, hard-earned elegance that springs from the scars of survival. 

This realm lies beyond the superficial understanding of tourists; it cannot be captured in photographs or filtered through myths. Instead, the essence of the Balkans resonates through the very air, the cadence of daily life, and the multitude of voices that speak both of pain and hope. For those who venture to truly know this place, the Balkans present no neat conclusions or straightforward tales. They are a mosaic—individual pieces jagged and uneven, yet forming an undeniable whole, rich with stories waiting to be embraced.

Sarajevo

The first place for me in the Balkans was Sarajevo. When I travelled from the airport to my hotel navigating the twisting lanes, I got myself engaged in a dialogue with the driver. He was inquisitive about India and posed several questions. When I brought up its vast size and massive population, I noticed his eyes flicker with surprise. The sheer scale of it all seemed to boggle his mind; for him, imagining that many individuals congregated in one area was very fantastical. As he spoke, the war lingered in his words, as if its details were common knowledge. But my own understanding was hazy, a vague recollection of the 1990s conflict. I knew there had been turmoil, but the specifics - the parties involved, the reasons behind it - remained unclear. It wasn't until later, when I sat down to read and learn, that the fog began to lift.

On the way to hotel - quite a few buildings like this riddled with bullet holes

Baščaršija market - the historical and cultural heart of Sarajevo

As we travelled, I could see Sarajevo unfolded before me like a delicate, timeworn mural, each thread woven from its rich, albeit turbulent, history. The aftermath of war lingered in the air, evident in the battered walls and fractured pavements, remnants of a conflict that scarred the city deeply. Yet, I could feel a profound stillness enveloping the place, an acceptance of its tumultuous past seemed ingrained in the very stones that made up the streets.

From Sarajevo to Belgrade

We left early in the morning from Sarajevo to Belgrade by road. I was accompanied by drivers/guides Ajdin and Amar, ethnically Bosnian Muslims who were more than just knowledgeable; they were passionate storytellers and also very friendly guys. Their deep understanding of the region’s history, culture, and hidden gems made every stop along the way come alive. Whether it was sharing anecdotes about the Ottoman era, or the history of Visegrad or unraveling the complexities of Yugoslavia, they had me hanging on their every word.

At Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge

On our way, in the tranquil landscapes of the Bosnian countryside, two UNESCO World Heritage Sites lingered like echoes from an almost forgotten era. The Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge in Visegrad gracefully spans the Drina River ("The Bridge on the Drina" is a very famous book by Nobel prize winning Yugoslav writer Ivo Andric), its timeworn stonework a testament to the artistry of the Ottoman era, conjuring images of past conquerors. Nearby, shrouded in the dense embrace of an ancient forest, rest the Stećci Medieval Tombstones—silent sentinels of a once-mighty Bosnian kingdom that stretched across this fractured land.

Stećci Tombstones

Mokra Gora - Narrow gauge train 

Kustendorf - also known as Drvengrad

We were told Djokovic practiced here before he went international - this is in Serbian side

Drina - natural separation of Bosnia and Serbia

The Drina River, gleaming a deep emerald, meanders through the lush landscape, revealing glimpses of bygone days. A leisurely cruise on its waters unveils the beauty of the old bridge, its graceful arches seemingly floating above the depths, untouched by the relentless passage of time. Nearby, the Dobrun Monastery stands resolute, its Serbian Orthodox architecture commanding respect, just the profound quietude of a site rich in history and spiritual yearning. Our guide narrated many tales how it withstood so many attacks across centuries. 

Venturing further, away from the cacophony of contemporary life, lies Drvengrad—a whimsical creation of filmmaker Emir Kusturica. This wooden town, with its delicate structures, embodies the fragility of memory and imagination. Then there’s the Šargan Eight (Mokra Gora), a nostalgic train ride that winds through the mountains, inviting passengers on a winding expedition where the past intertwines with the present.

Belgrade

Upon entering Belgrade, the contrast with Sarajevo was striking. Both cities boast a deep cultural heritage yet possess unique characters. Sarajevo enchants with its detailed, oriental architecture and the warm hospitality of its residents, while Belgrade captivates with a daring blend of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Austro-Hungarian elements, all set against a backdrop of a lively and cosmopolitan vibe.

Republic Square

Kalemegdan fortress

The temple of Saint Sava

Belgrade was the capital and largest city of former Yugoslavia. During the Yugoslav era, Belgrade was a center of culture and entertainment, with numerous museums, galleries, theaters, and music venues. It's now the capital of Serbia. Among a few others, what caught my attention was the pedestrian pavements especially in some localities like Knez Mihailova - they are a testament to the city's eclectic charm. Their modern, sleek design is similar to what you might find in cities like Vienna, Zurich, or Copenhagen. 

Both Republic square and Kalemegdan fortress were at a walking distance from the hotel I stayed. Republic Square in Belgrade is a vibrant mosaic, reflecting the city's imperial history and Balkan spirit. The National Museum's neoclassical façade commands attention, symbolizing the city's European cultural ambitions - it's indeed a majestic structure. 

Nearby, the Kalemegdan Fortress is a monument to Belgrade's turbulent past, its walls etched with the marks of numerous battles. Below, the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers silently narrates the rise and fall of great empires, from the Romans to the Ottomans and the Austrians.

In the next and concluding part, we'll see the details of three countries of Adriatic-Balkan region: Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia. 

Sri Lanka - A Journey through its Nature, Culture and Diversity

Sri Lanka is a small island nation in the Indian Ocean that offers a wealth of experiences for travelers who are looking for something different. Whether you are interested in exploring its ancient heritage, its diverse culture, or its stunning natural beauty, Sri Lanka has something for everyone. Here are some of the highlights of this amazing country that we covered in our trip.

The Landscape of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a land of many contrasts, with its diverse landscapes ranging from sandy beaches and coral reefs to lush rainforests and misty mountains. You can enjoy the tropical climate and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean along the coast, where you can find some of the best surfing spots in the world. You can also visit the national parks and wildlife sanctuaries that are home to hundreds of species of animals and plants, including elephants, leopards, monkeys, birds and flowers. If you are dharmic, you have many ancient temples/stupas spread across the country. If you have taste for adventure, you can hike or take a train ride through the hills and tea plantations of the central highlands, where you can witness the breathtaking views of waterfalls, valleys and lakes.

We tailored our trip on the theme "Ramayana trial" - the key places that are depicted in our national Epic Ramayana. Our guide said to cover all the places depicted in Ramayana it would take over a week of dedicated time. But we decided to include some other famous tourist places. Hence, we could focus on only the main places in Ramayana. Some of the most popular places that we visited in Sri Lanka where the highlight was landscape were:

Sigiriya: This ancient rock fortress is one of the most iconic landmarks of Sri Lanka. It was built by King Kasyapa in the 5th century CE as his royal palace and capital. The site features a massive rock that rises 200 meters above the surrounding plains, with a palace complex on top and a series of gardens, ponds and frescoes at its base. Sigiriya is also known as the Lion Rock because of the huge lion-shaped gateway that leads to the summit. It is also said that Ravana's kingdom existed in & around this area. To go to the top, one needs to climb 1200+ steps, I reckon it's totally worth the effort. 

Spectacular view before the climb

Our guide of the day in Sigiriya

At the top

The climb

Yala National Park: This is the most visited and second largest national park in Sri Lanka. It covers an area of 979 square kilometers and hosts a variety of ecosystems such as forests, grasslands, wetlands and beaches. Yala is famous for its wildlife diversity and density, especially its large population of leopards. It is also home to elephants, crocodiles, sloth bears, deer, monkeys and many species of birds. Yala has the highest population density of leopards in the world, making it a great place to spot these elusive cats.

Elephant - most common sighting

Nuwara Eliya: This is a picturesque town in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country. The British colonial experience is strong as still retains its major influence in architecture. Nuwara Eliya is surrounded by green hills and tea plantations that produce some of the finest teas in the world. It is also a popular destination for hiking, golfing and enjoying the cool climate. We also witness Ashoka Vatika where Sita Devi was held captive by the demon King Ravana - there is a temple dedicated to Devi Sita.

The Culture of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a melting pot of cultures that reflects its long and rich history. The country has been influenced by various civilizations and religions over the centuries, from ancient Buddhist kingdoms to colonial powers such as Portugal, Netherlands andc1 Britain. Today, Sri Lanka is a multi-ethnic and multi-religious society that celebrates its diversity and harmony. You can experience the different aspects of Sri Lankan culture by visiting its temples, mosques, churches and monuments that showcase its architectural and artistic heritage. You can also enjoy its vibrant festivals, music, dance and cuisine that reflect its unique blend of traditions and influences.

Some of the popular places we visited in Sri Lanka with a focus on its culture were:

Trincomalee: Trincomalee is a town and port in the Eastern Province of Sri Lanka and has a rich history and culture, dating back to over two millennia. It is home to the famous Koneswaram temple, which is one of the five abodes of Shiva and a major Hindu pilgrimage site. Trincomalee is also known for its beautiful beaches, such as Uppuveli and Nilaveli. Trincomalee is a hidden gem in Sri Lanka that offers a unique experience for travelers.

Kandy: This is the cultural capital of Sri Lanka and the last royal city of the Sinhalese kings. It is located in a scenic valley surrounded by hills and forests. Kandy is famous for its sacred Temple of the Tooth Relic , which houses a tooth believed to belong to Buddha himself. The temple is also the venue for the annual Esala Perahera festival , which is one of the most spectacular religious processions in Asia. It features thousands of dancers, drummers, elephants and torchbearers parading through the streets in honor of Buddha.

Galle: This is a historic port city on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. It was founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century and later fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century. Galle is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture and atmosphere. The Galle Fort , which covers an area of 52 hectares , is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains many buildings from different eras. On the way from Galle to Colombo we would get the coastal city of Bentota where you could see a large chunck of European tourists because of availability of hosts of watersports. There is a spectacular watersport activity around mangroove forest where Madu river meets Indian ocean.

Colombo:  Colombo is a bustling and vibrant city that offers a mixture of modern life, colonial buildings and monuments, and natural beauty.  It has a rich and diverse history and culture, influenced by various colonial powers such as the Portuguese, Dutch and British, as well as the local Sinhalese and Tamil communities.

Conclusion - Whether you want to relax on the sand, explore the cultural heritage, or enjoy the thrill of adventure, Sri Lanka has something for everyone. Highly recommended.